Outdoor Adventures

The Golden Wolf

2011-10-06T08:48:00.006-08:00

Sometimes in the outdoors there are extraordinary experiences that stand out, and even when they are happening you realize it's something never to be forgotten.

Recently on my trip to the North Slope, I was driving down the Haul Road and saw a wolf in the distance, trotting across the tundra and angling towards the road. I grabbed my camera, rolled down the window, and tried to time our convergence for a good photo. As he drew nearer I was surprised to see his color, a beautiful shade of gold that I'd never seen before in a wolf. He trotted along confidently as I took a few photos. When I stopped he became suspicious and quickly loped across the deserted gravel road and trotted across the tundra on the other side, stopping to pounce upon a mouse. He scanned the countryside as he slowly disappeared in the distance.

The next day I was far off the road, glassing the open hills and creek bottoms for caribou. When I lowered my binoculars, a white dot moved across a hillside well over a mile away: a wolf. Through my binoculars I watched as he angled my way. Leaving my hilltop I kept an eye on him as I moved to intercept his route. When he got to the creek he jumped on something, rolling around in the high grass, appearing and disappearing, his bushy tail flipping in the air from time to time. He'd be gone for a bit, then his head would pop up again. When he headed upstream and disappeared into the willows he was still a mile away. As I hurried along for another look I continued to look around, and was startled to see him suddenly trotting behind me, through the knee-high willows only a hundred yards or so away.

It took a moment to realize what I was seeing. The light was different, but I realized he wasn't white at all, but a pale yellow. It HAD to be the same wolf. When we made eye contact he paused for moment, then turned to run. The distinctive black spot on his tail confirmed his identity. When he stopped again to gauge my reaction it's as if he recognized me, too. Then he loped away over the hilltop and was gone.

Our last encounter had been about fifteen miles away as the crow flies. What were the odds that he would have changed direction after that first meeting, and come directly to me for another rendezvous the very next day? I suppose there was no reason or explanation, it just was.

Return to the North Slope of the Brooks Range

2011-09-23T20:28:00.004-08:00

Late last night I returned from a wonderful experience. Leaving Sunday I made the long drive north, up the Haul Road and over the crest of the Brooks Range towards Deadhorse. Fall colors were just past their peak in Fairbanks, but in the 400 mile drive ebbed to the faded reds and browns of late fall, with the leaves all fallen. The higher elevations of the Brooks Range were dusted with new snows. Atigun Pass was already deep with winter snow and ice. On the north side of the pass there were many snow-white Dall sheep feeding just below snow line. A fat grizzly bear loped down the mountainside just beyond.

In another hour a few scattered caribou appeared here and there. I was completely out of game meat in Fairbanks and was looking for a caribou to fill my freezer. Rifle hunters must be 5 miles off the Haul Road to hunt. It's a good rule and one that dramatically reduces hunting pressure. Just before nightfall I set up my camp just over 5 miles from the road. Early the next morning I climbed to a hilltop overlooking several little lakes and streams, with the higher hills beyond mostly hidden by low-lying clouds.

In late morning I had a remarkable encounter with a wolf I recognized, (a story I'll save for another time.) Around 1 PM I spotted a band of caribou about 1-1/2 miles a way: cows, calves and young bulls. They disappeared for a while and next time I looked they had been replaced by a half dozen magnificent mature bulls, their manes white against the tundra. It can be hard to catch up with moving caribou, but you never know when they might bed down. As luck would have it, they did.

When I carefully crested the gently sloped ridge they were still bedded, with one or two occasionally rising to feed before lying down again. The other band of caribou appeared on the low ridge above. When it looked like they were heading toward the creek, I crawled back out of sight and moved to cut them off, but they bedded again. Finally after the third long crawl I was within shooting distance. When my selected bull was clear it was a quick, clean kill and he was down. The other caribou scattered when I stood up, a small forest of swaying antlers.

It was hard work getting him out, but well worth it. What a treasure to have a place like that left in the world: truly wild animals and the sweep of beautiful lonely wilderness. How many places can a person set out alone from their front door and see moose, wolf, Dall sheep, caribou and grizzly on trip of a few days? What is it worth to have the opportunity to experience it?

My Remote Alaska Homestead

2011-08-31T14:39:00.009-08:00

A few months ago I stumbled across an ad for a remote Alaska homestead, 39 acres, no road access, about 20 miles south of Denali National Park. "1500 feet of creek frontage - large stream with plenty of fishing" the ad said, "This is a complete turn-key homestead...SkiDoo Tundra in good running condition. However, bears chewed the gas tank off." I looked it up on Google Earth. The access was flying to a lake about a mile from the cabins.

I contacted the fellow with some questions about the shape of the cabin, hunting, fishing and hiking opportunities and whatnot. The lake was unlandable that time of year, in May, with mushy ice. It's usually unwise to buy land sight unseen, but after doing what research I could, I decided to take a chance.

It wasn't until August 3rd that I could fly out there. The pilot landed the small Super Cub, and it took only a minute or so to unload my small pile of gear and then he flew away. It would be more than three weeks before I saw another person.

That area is thick country compared to Fairbanks, with patches of alders and devil's club along with birch and spruce. But there was a flagged trail laid out to the cabin and in less than an hour I entered a meadow of fireweed in full bloom and caught my first sight of the cabin.

I was excited but had mixed emotions. Most truly remote cabins have debris around. It's a lot of work and expensive to fly things back out, and you never know what might be useful. Plus it's not like you need to impress people dropping by. There were broken sleds and tattered tarps and bear-chewed gas cans and more around the cabin. 2/3 of the tarp roof of one cache was in tatters with the tools exposed to the rain. The roof had partially collapsed on the second shed, with hundreds of pounds of rainwater in a giant pool crushing down what was left. Outside the rain poured down from a dreary sky and at that moment I was unsure of how good of a deal I'd gotten.

After packing the second and final load of my supplies to the cabin I got into dry clothes and rolled out my sleeping bag and read the rest of the day. The rain pattered on the good steel roof of the cabin. A good roof was a big plus.

The next day I repaired the roof of the small cache and drained the water off the second shed. The day after I cut and peeled some spruce poles for the roof and soon the second shed was also waterproof. Each day things took shape a little more as I explored, cleaned and organized. Unexpectedly there was a 10 gauge double-barreled shotgun there, "loaded for bear" with slugs. Also a .22 rifle and a bow. Fishing rods, hand saws, several chain saws, axes, at least a hundred pounds of assorted nails and screws, a brush cutter, lots of food, rain gear, boots, hundreds of books, radios, clothing, a solar system, a generator and much more. It was fun discovering new stuff. The original homesteader had truly accomplished a staggering amount of work building that cabin and homestead in that remote area.

I would listen to the radio almost all day as I worked. There was a long wire serving as an antenna so reception was perfect. The solar panel powered the radio. When two sunny days were predicted, I left in the morning on an expedition to climb a mountain peak about 6 miles away. It was a tough walk at times. But I found an old cabin and when I finally made the summit of that mountain late that evening there were stunning views of the Alaska Range, including Foraker and McKinley.

At the end of three weeks at the cabin things were neatly organized and it was time to head home. There were already claw and bite marks from grizzly and black bears around the corners of the cabin, so I made several "nail boards" with nails sticking out every which way and nailed them over the front door to discourage bears from breaking in.

I packed my inflatable kayak down the creek a ways and then inflated it and paddled and dragged down to the first confluence. There I could see salmon in the pool. Right off the bat I caught a big rainbow trout, then a silver salmon and a chum salmon and grayling.

Shortly after continuing I found a moose antler in the creek, and shortly thereafter another on a gravel bar next to a pool full of salmon.

I had many portages to do around and over logs, but otherwise made steady progress. What a beautiful little creek. The next day I made it down to the Yentna River. Near the mouth of the river I began seeing seals that had swum up the Susitna River after the salmon. As I began deflating my kayak a power boat was coming down river so I held up my "Willow" (a small town) sign and he swung over and gave me ride up the river and into Willow which was right on his way. For his kindness I donated some gas money. In the bush people really do look out for each other.

It turned out to be a great adventure and I look forward to returning. I'd like to thank Frank, the original owner, for the huge amount of work he did building that homestead, and for his generous advice based on his years of hard-won experience in wilderness homesteading.

Waterborne Giardia for Backpackers: No Myth

2011-03-01T11:56:00.010-09:00

I have seen two articles recently attempting to debunk the “myth” that backpackers get Giardia from drinking water in the backcountry. Googling “Giardia Myth” I get 243,000 results. But there is no question that some backpackers DO get Giardia from drinking water. The only question is, how many?

Years ago I twice contracted Giardiasis, in consecutive years. Since the second time I have been very careful about treating water, and had no trouble for many years. However, before I left on my five month thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail last year, I read this article. Giardia lamblia and Giardiasis
With Particular Attention to the Sierra Nevada. It made a very convincing case that the odds of getting Giardia from backcountry drinking water was so low it didn't pay to worry about, at least in the High Sierras, as long as some attempt was made to select water sources. Instead, a focus on hygiene was stressed. So on the PCT I usually didn't treat my water. But I was the most careful I've ever been with hygiene in the outdoors. Unfortunately I got so sick in the Sierras that I was curled up on a mountainside, and it took me most of a day to make it the four miles (only four, luckily) to the nearest road. I partially recovered, after a full day of rest, then a week later became very sick again. Luckily I was at Mammoth Lakes. My physician diagnosed Giardia. He told me he treats many backpacker Giardia cases and doesn't report it. He laughed when I told him about the article I read. Other hikers have told me their doctors told them the same. Since Giardia is common among backpackers it doesn't get counted as an outbreak. At least 8 of my fellow PCT thru-hikers reported getting Giardia last summer.

Here are some undisputed facts. Giardia is very common. There are about 2 ½ million cases a year in the United States. Giardia cysts may be ingested with contaminated food or water, or acquired from unwashed hands. Most sickness experienced by backpackers is undoubtedly caused by things other than Giardia. The incubation period of Giardia is usually 3 to 25 days or longer.

What are the odds of getting Giardia while out backpacking? Anecdotal evidence is extremely undependable, but I was able to find two studies that tested backpackers before and after heading afield.

Twenty-five...campers had stools examined before and after a subsequent hiking trip in another area of Utah; none had Giardia cysts before, but 6 (24%) had them after return. This source goes on to say Questionnaires returned by 133 of the campers showed that 5% had an illness compatible with giardiasis within 2 weeks after their trip. These surveys show that campers exposed to mountain stream water are at risk of acquiring giardiasis.

In another excellent study, 2 of 35 people got Giardia, but were asymptomatic. A third had Giardia symptoms, was treated for Giardia, and quickly recovered. Giardia is often not detected with a single test. So it is certain at least 5.7% got Giardia, and it seems more than likely that 3 of 35 got Giardia, for a total of 8 1/2%.

We know there was Giardia in this high use area, an average of about 3.5 cysts per 100 gallons. How do we know they got Giardia from their drinking water? We don't. But another study shows a strong correlation between not treating mountain water and getting Giardia:

A one-year retrospective laboratory survey in Colorado revealed that 691 (3%) of 22,743 stool examinations for ova and parasites were positive for Giardia lamblia, a higher percentage than that reported from surveys outside of Colorado. The majority of infected residents who were surveyed had experienced an episode of chronic watery diarrhea (median duration 3.8 weeks) with bloating, flatulence, and weight loss (averaging 5.1 kg), and had responded to a course of metronidazole or quinacrine. A statewide telephone survey of 256 cases and matched controls identified: 1) and increased incidence of giardiasis in persons between the ages of 16 and 45, p less than .001, with males and females equally affected; and 2) a higher proportion of cases than controls who visited Colorado mountains (69% vs. 47%), camped out overnight (38% vs. 18%), and drank untreated mountain water (50% vs. 17%), p less than .001. Also identified was a correlation between the seasonal distribution of cases and degree of fecal contamination of mountain streams. These results indicated that G. lamblia is endemic in Colorado and that drinking untreated mountain water is an important cause of endemic infection.

(Note, after I wrote this post I ran a poll on the Alaska Outdoors Forum. That poll also showed that people who didn't treat water contracted Giardiasis about 3 times as often. What actually happens in the real world trumps theories of what should be happening.)

The skeptics of waterborne Giardia transmission for backpackers tend to rely on the low numbers of cysts usually shown in backcountry drinking water, and statements to the effect that 10 or even 20 cysts are required for an “infectious dose.” But those statements are all based on one very limited study, (Waterborne Transmission Of Giardiasis Proceedings Of A Symposium Held At Cincinnati Ohio On Sept 18-20, 1978 starting on page 64) a key part of which is shown below:

Based on that study, it's obvious that much lower numbers of cysts MAY cause Giardia. As a matter of fact it has been calculated that one cyst has “a 2 percent probability of causing giardiasis.” Something to ponder is that An infected person might shed 1-10 billion cysts daily in their feces...

The people who claim to have drank untreated water for years without getting sick are probably right. Many Giardia carriers are asymptomatic. Some people apparently are resistant. Others may be lucky. Nonetheless, getting Giardia in the backcountry is very common.

Anyone may become infected with Giardia. However, those at greatest risk are:

Travelers to countries where giardiasis is common
People in child care settings
Those who are in close contact with someone who has the disease
People who swallow contaminated drinking water
Backpackers or campers who drink untreated water from lakes or rivers

(Giardia)Cysts have been found all months of the year in surface waters from the Arctic to the tropics in even the most pristine of surface waters...In Wisconsin, Archer et al (1995) found that all 18 streams sampled were positive for Giardia; the highest level was 2,601 cysts/100 L from a stream characterized as pristine. That's 26 cysts per liter. In other words, you'd probably get Giardia if you were drinking from that stream.

Although giardiasis makes some people very sick indeed, it is treatable. If I somehow got in a position where I had a choice between drinking suspect water or getting dangerously dehydrated, I'd choose the former. Most stomach upsets resulting from backpacking are not Giardia, and hand washing before eating is important.

You should make your own choices about water treatment, but it's important to realize that the risks of getting Giardia from backcountry water are no myth.

Please comment with your corrections and feedback. I will edit this article as needed. If you're a Facebooker and like this article, please click the “Like” button.

Bears: Should you be afraid?

2011-02-04T12:47:00.008-09:00

(Grizzly rushes towards me in Alone Across Alaska.)

What are your odds of being killed by a bear? Incredibly low. So low that it's not something to worry about. What are the facts backing up that statement? Since interest, or perhaps morbid obsession, with fatal bear attacks is so high, Wikipedia actually gives a reasonably good idea of the recent numbers because people rush to list "another bear attack." According to Wikipedia, in the 2000's black bears killed 15 people in NORTH AMERICA (including Canada, the U.S., and Mexico.) Grizzlies killed 12 people during that same period, for a total of 27. For the 90's Wikipedia lists 23 fatal attacks. Dr. Stephen Herrero, a leading authority on human/bear conflicts, says 29 people were killed by bears in North America in the 1990s. In other words, less than three people are killed in North America by bears each year over the last 20 years. And that includes all the countless people in all of the most theoretically dangerous places: Yellowstone, Denali, BC, Alberta, the Yukon, Glacier.

To put things in perspective, about 2 3/4 MILLION people die each year of all causes in the U.S. and Canada. That's well over 7,000 people every day. Other causes are about ONE MILLION TIMES more likely to kill you than bears. So why are people scared of bears? Partly because every fatal bear attack gets huge news coverage. Partly because people are instinctively afraid of bears and the unknown and the unfamiliar. This article helps explain our bear fear (thanks to SouthMark on Whiteblaze.net.)

Death Rates in the U.S. (note, these are all from recent years, mostly from 2007)

Heart disease: 616,067
Cancer: 562,875
Stroke (cerebrovascular diseases): 135,952
Chronic lower respiratory diseases: 127,924
Accidents (unintentional injuries): 123,706
Alzheimer's disease: 74,632
Diabetes: 71,382
Influenza and Pneumonia: 52,717
Nephritis, nephrotic syndrome, and nephrosis: 46,448
Motor Vehicle Accidents: 40,000
Septicemia: 34,828
Suicide: 30,000
Poisoning: 22,700
Falls: 21,600
Murder: 16,929
Drowning: 4,000
Boating: 339
Horseback riding: 200
Hypothermia: 187
Lightning: 90
Bee sting: 55
Dogs: 30
Snake bite: 5
Bear attack (average over 20 years in the U.S): 1.3

With about 16,929 murders a year in the US and Canada combined out of a total population of about 334,000,000, about 1 out of 19,625 people will be a murderer in a given year.

With about 3 fatal bear attacks per year in the US and Canada combined, and about 660,000 bears in the US and Canada total, about 1 out of 220,000 bears will be "murderers" in a given year.

In Stephen Herrero's great book Bear Attacks: Their Causes and Avoidance (revised edition) he says this: Bear attacks are rare events. I told her that in North America there are an estimated six hundred thousand black bears and sixty thousand grizzly bears. Each year there are millions of times in which each species is close to people and no threat or injury results... I hate to see people's lives crippled by fear based on ignorance.

So what should you do with this information? Follow a few simple precautions and simply enjoy your trip into bear country. Trust me, you'll be fine. (Oh, and by the way, that grizzly bear in the photo rushed towards me until it smelled me, then turned and ran.)

If you like this post, I hope you'll click the "Like" button below, and spread the word! Your comments and suggestions are welcome.

January in the Alaskan Interior

2011-01-17T08:21:00.005-09:00

It's still dark and 34 below this morning. Yesterday I drove down to Cantwell and back. There were beautiful views of Denali. Just west of Fairbanks I took these two photos.

As I mentioned in a post a year ago, Denali, at about 160 miles from Fairbanks, should be mostly hidden by the curvature of the earth and barely appear above the horizon. But on a day like yesterday, atmospheric conditions allow the mountain to "jump" above the horizon. Notice how the mountain on the right, probably Mt. Foraker, has "grown" and changed shape in the second photo, taken minutes later from a few miles further down the road. One advantage to the days this far north is that the low sun provides beautiful light from sunrise to sunset.

Back in Alaska

2010-12-08T15:05:00.006-09:00

I'm back in Alaska. What an epic summer it was! This photo is of a sunrise on the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington last September. I just posted an update on my PCT webpage. Please check it out!

After the PCT I spent several wonderful weeks in southwest Montana and northern Wyoming, including an awesome week of Indian summer in Yellowstone. One of my favorite parts of the trip was a float down the Big Hole and Jefferson Rivers in October, when the colors were still nice and there was virtually no one else on the river. I also spent a couple of weeks in Minnesota hunting with the family as well as visiting friends and family. It was really fun. I hope you are enjoying your fall, wherever you may be.

Pacific Crest Trail hike completed!

2010-09-21T15:03:00.004-08:00

I reached the border on a rainy/snowy day, at about 12:15 Pacific Time yesterday, September 20. The fall colors were spectacular, but it was likely the coldest, wettest day of the entire hike. A hiker that came into Manning Park a few hours behind me said he had ankle deep snow by the time he got off the crest, while the snow was melting as it fell while I was there. So, I'm happy to say, I beat the fall snows.

The hike was an unforgettable experience. I will be updating my website in a few days with more stories, photos, and reflections. I hope you'll check it out!

Thanks to everyone for your support during my summer on the trail!

Pacific Crest Trail: Snowqualmie Pass. 2403 Miles Completed, 254 Miles Left!

2010-09-08T08:40:00.005-08:00

The miles have been flying by. Fall hit the Pacific Crest Trail for me in the Three Sisters area. The weather has been much cooler, and the fall colors have been coming on strong. I have been averaging about 25 miles a day for weeks now. The days are getting shorter but I'm packing up as the sky starts getting gray in the morning, and hiking fairly steadily with fairly short breaks until near dark. For me, that means actually starting my walk around 6:30 and stopping to set up my tent sometime before 8 PM.

My old (as in from past years) smokejumper buddies Mike Fitzpatrick and Steve Dickenson met me at Timberline Lodge on the base of Mt. Hood. Mike treated me to a great buffet there while we exchanged a long string of smokejumper stories. The tales kept on coming as we headed to Steve's house, where he made us a great dinner. It was really fun to see those guys.

By chance, I ended up in Cascade Locks for "Hiker Days." It was really fun to see many thru-hikers I know from the trail, many of whom I hadn't seen for hundreds of miles. There was a big raffle. I'd got a pile of tickets as a way to donate to PCTA and ended up winning a backpack, a bear canister, and a wool hat!

Not surprisingly, perhaps, there have been several days of rain here in Washington. Yesterday was a real soaker. A big plus is the fall colors are getting very bright now. The huckleberry bushes are thick and there are all the berries I want it many places. There are also blackberries in places and even raspberries and thimbleberries.

One evening I had a beautiful camp at the base of Mt. Adams. In the evening, the orange alpine glow on my camp and the mountain is something I'll never forget. St. Helens in the distance and the looming Rainier have added to the backdrop of the hike.

The Goat Rocks Wilderness was as beautiful as described, rugged and still snowy in stretches. I hit the "Knife Edge" area early in the morning while the snow was frozen and had to use a rock to chop steps across an especially steep section. Later in the day when the snow was soft it would have been no problem.

Three days ago I ended up Urich Cabin along the trail. I finally caught up with Wyoming, my hiking partner from earlier this summer. It was really fun to see her and catch up on the news. Also there were several more thru-hikers there. Dicentra, author of a backpacker cookbook, and her friend Hoosier Daddy were there with "trail magic." We had some great chili that evening and pancakes in the morning! Magic Man had brought Krispy Creme Donuts, too. What a feast!

I've seen mountain goats in places, deer of course, and many elk recently. One foggy morning a few days ago I heard the first bull elk bugling. And this being Washington in September, it's not surprising that there has been plenty of rain. It rained nearly all day yesterday, and when it wasn't raining it was still soaking wet with the huckleberry bushes crowding the trail and the trees dripping down. Basically, I am often soaked below the waist all day long, damp above the waist, and toasty warm and dry at night, when I sleep soundly about nine hours a night.

My smokejumper bro Rod Dow met me at White Pass and brought me a hot meal and four days of smokejumper food, all of it "his treat." His generosity has continues as he picked me up at Snowqualmie Pass and I'm now at his house here an hour east of the trail. More smokejumper tales, and plenty of belly laughs.

There is some fairly steep and likely wet hiking ahead, but if things go well I'll finish the trail around September 21 or thereabouts. It's been a grand adventure, but at this point most of us are pushing towards Canada to reach our goal and to limit the amount of rain, or snow we are likely to experience. I'll post on my website in the future with more photos and stories and a hike wrap-up.

Enjoy your day!

Pacific Crest Trail: Bend, OR. 1962 Miles.

2010-08-20T12:51:00.003-08:00

I just updated my website. The hike is going great. Check it out!

Pacific Crest Trail: California Completed!

2010-08-08T10:59:00.001-08:00

I just got back to Kennedy Meadows, meaning California is all done. In a little bit I'm going to hitch down to Highway 395 and then towards Ashland, Oregon. I'm still on schedule but have to average about 20 miles per day to finish in September, before the snows of October. I've hiked something like 1,736 miles, with over 900 to go.

The last four days I've hiked about 104 miles, and that includes high passes like Forester, over 13,000 feet, and a climb of Mt. Whitney, about 14,496 feet. The "High Sierra" was rugged, steep, and was my longest stretch without resupply. It was also spectacular in beauty.

Have a good day!

Pacific Crest Trail Hike: Mile 1,533, Mammoth Lakes, California

2010-07-26T18:00:00.003-08:00

The snow is melting at last, I'm happy to say. The hike is going well. I just updated my website along with some new photos. Have fun on your own adventures!

Pacific Crest Trail - Donner Pass, CA; 1,283 Miles

2010-07-09T11:27:00.002-08:00

I'm taking a day off on Donner Lake, and have just updated my website. It's a snowy year, but progress has been good and it's been a grand adventure.

Old Station, California; Pacfic Crest Trail.

2010-06-27T07:40:00.002-08:00

I've updated my website along with some photos. One thousand miles down, sixteen hundred more to go!

June 16, 2010 - Etna, CA; 824 Miles, Day 58

2010-06-17T14:46:00.001-08:00

I just updated my website with the latest news of my Pacific Crest Trail hike, along with several new photos. This is a perfect town to contemplate options for the snowy trail ahead. The beautiful weather of the last few days is slowly taking a toll on the unusually deep and extensive snowpack.

Mile 704, Kennedy Meadows, CA, Pacific Crest Trail

2010-06-05T06:57:00.003-08:00

The hike is going great. I'm headed up to Ashland to hike back south to this point to give the snows just north of here a little more time to melt. You can check out a full update, here: http://www.bucktrack.com/PCT.html

Mile 560; Mojave, California

2010-05-28T09:28:00.003-08:00

I got into Mojave yesterday and only have a few minutes on the library computer! Wyoming and I walked along the Los Angeles Aquaduct for a day and then up over some mountains and to the road where I hitched into Mojave and she into Tehachapi for packages waiting for us there.

We've been walking through stands of Joshua trees, many species and colors of wildflowers, and continue to hike from desert to moutain forests and back. We've seen many quail and birds, as well as ground squirrels, but except for deer not many large animals. We spotted what looked to be wolves in pens a couple of days ago and got a tour of the wolf hybrid kennels. There were some super cute wolf puppies and a huge white wolf. It was interesting to see him "smiling" like a dog, a far cry from wild wolves when they encounter humans.

It has been running very cool and we walked in a heavy mist for hours yesterday in our heavy jackets and rain gear, up in the clouds. There are thousands of wind turbines around here, some of them are simply huge.

I'm thinking of "flipping" up to Ashland, Oregon, once we get to Kennedy Meadows, and then walking south back toward Kennedy Meadows to give the snow time to melt, but we'll have to see what the snow is like when we get there.

Gotta go, have a good day!

Agua Dulce, California, Mile 455: Pacific Crest Trail

2010-05-21T20:17:00.001-08:00

I just posted on update and several photos on my website. Check it out!

Wrightwood, CA; Mile 370 Pacific Crest Trail

2010-05-18T09:19:00.004-08:00

I'm at the library in Wrightwood with the "time remaining" clock winding down on the computer.

It was a beautiful and easy walk out of Big Bear City, back into some big trees, then through a huge wildfire burn from a year or two ago. The next day there were three creek crossings of about knee deep. There was a long walk along a canyon with the trail dropping off steeply to one side. Wildflowers are profuse, especially in places, with numerous lizards for entertainment.

I spent a day at a hot springs. An infinite supply of hot water in the backcountry is a genuine treat. Many thru-hikers stopped for a soak while i was there. What a relaxing day. I hiked with Joker and Motor for much of the next day. I camped in a canyon just above the trail. An anticipated landmark was reached the next day. There was an official sign on the trail that said "McDonald's, 1/4 Mile." I ordered every item off the dollar menu, 7 in all, and ate them no problem.

After that was a major reroute caused by another big fire from last year. It was some hot walking but with some scenic spots. Several thru-hikers and I camped in Applewhite? Campground. Water out of spigots was nice to have, the shade even moreso. I was surprised to experience the first heavy fog of the trip, things were dripping in the morning.

Yesterday was a major climb, over 5,000 vertical feet, not counting all the lesser ups and downs. It was another desert to mountains day, with hours up in the big trees and with significant snow in places. Around 5 PM I hit the road the same time as Happy Feet. We got a ride into town with the second car. I ate four tacos and an order of nachos for dinner, with a big helping of ice cream for dessert.

Southern California has big a big surprise. My impression is that it was mostly desert. There has certainly been plenty, but on this route there's also been a great deal of mountains. The variety keeps things interesting.

There are thru-hikers all over town. I saw them at the hardware store, (run by a retired smokejumper of my era, Mike Troeger!) the post office, the eateries, the grocery store, etc. There are always many errands to run in these busy town stops.

I've been getting up at about 5:30, and starting to hike about 6:00 before it gets hot. I take breaks when I need them. Most full days of walking I'm doing about 16-20 miles of walking, with my longest day on this trip about 28 miles. The pace is much more relaxed than my other hikes as there is still mountains of snow that need to melt ahead of me. Just ahead there is supposed to be deep snow.

Well, that's it for now. The next major stop is Agua Dulce. Enjoy your day!

Big Bear City, California: 265 Miles/10% of the PCT Done!

2010-05-10T16:05:00.001-08:00

I hiked down to Highway 18 at about noon today, and it took only about 15 minutes to get a ride down to Big Bear City. The lady delivered me right to the door of Nature's Inn, where I'm staying.

The hike is continuing to go very well. My knees and feet are doing great. I really like my shoes, they are a perfect fit for me. My equipment has been peforming well too with one exception.

I hiked out of Idyllwild and was soon back into the deep snow. I found a bare place to camp and when I was chopping snow to use for cooking my ULA Ice Axe broke!! I couldn't believe it. I had stopped early in the afternoon so I spent a couple of hours making a very servicable repair. The next day was a long one of traversing the famously steep Fuller Ridge. I'd bought micro-spikes for traction and by using caution and by doing lots of map reading and floundering around by the end of the day the Saddle Junction to Fuller Ridge traverse was completed. And I was glad.

I camped by a giant boulder and had an excellent sleep. The next day could hardly have been more different. For hours there was an "endless" descent with a series of countless switchbacks. From the deep snows to baking heat. From big trees to cactus. Half way down I ran across a wildfire. It had been started by a PCT hiker, as I had feared, a fellow I had met many times along the trail. He was using a cook stove, and the high winds just blew the flames into nearby grass and the wildfire raced up the hill. He reported it and identified himself, an honorable man. For me it was a "collision of worlds" when I came through the smoking fire as both a PCT hiker and a recently retired firefighter. The sound of aircraft and the smell of smoke and the crews were all very familiar.

The trail goes through the underpass at Interstate 10. There, a hiker from the 2006 Class of PCT Thru-hikers, trail name "Chai Man," had a keg of beer! The hikers acted with remarkable constraint. ANOTHER Trail Angel, Dave, also showed up, and drove four of us to the A&W a few miles away, where we all bought ourselves a huge meal. The icy rootbeers in that heat were awesome. That eveing, I hiked to the Mesa Wind Farm, where they kindly allow hikers to get drinking water. I could see desert, dozens of wind turbines, and snowy mountains from my sleeping bag. Nearly every night I just roll out my sleeping pad and bag in a nice looking spot so camping is easy!

There was another day of very scenic desert hiking, then I climbed thousands of feet back up into the snowy mountains. There was some more easily crossed snow patches. The afternoon became windy, and I actually moved camp after it became intense. I found a place in thick scrub oak on the lee side of the ridge. It froze last night and that with the wind called for my down jacket, balaclava and long underwear in my sleeping bag.

This is a nice place to stay. I'm splitting a room with two fellow hikers, Old Scout and Danny. I got a giant burger, did my laundry, got partially caught up on email, and still have shopping and other chores to do.

I'm still ahead of schedule. There's big snow ahead in the Sierras so I don't want to go any faster, but want to give it plenty of time to melt.

Idyllwild, California

2010-05-04T09:26:00.002-08:00

I am in this nice little town trying to update on a tiny borrowed IPhone. Yesterrday I got into deep and steep snow. It was nice having an ice axe. The trail disappeared in the snow and I saw a guy whose tracks I was following. We finally figured out where we were and headed cross-country, doing a remarkably good or lucky job of finding the "saddle" the trail ran through. Lots of beautiful big trees and dramatic mountains. The first car gave us a ride to town, people have been great. This is about 180+ miles. Feeling greT and enjoying a day off with hiker friends. Ate a half pizza and a pint of ice cream last night!

PCT Update, Made it to Warner Springs, 110 Miles

2010-04-29T12:42:00.004-08:00

It's been a great hike so far, with unexpected weather conditions. Driving out of San Diego, a few minutes after leaving the palm trees, a car ahead of us lost control in the snow!! Four carloads of hikers met at the monument marking the southern terminus, and soon we all headed north. It wasn't long until a cold rain was falling, which later turned to sleet, enough to make the ground white. It rained much of the time over the next two days. Rather than the baking heat and lack of water we expected, my hands were so cold it was hard to open the guidebook, and every little drainage had a running brook!

The PCT kick-off gathering had hundreds of people, and it was fun to meet so many hikers including many well-known names. It was freezing hard at night, and there were some chilly people who had planned more for the heat than the cold and wet. I'm actually pretty well geared up with a rain jacket, balaclava, and warm down jacket.

The miles have been remarkably easy, with a sensibly graded trail and good footing. The landscape has varied from desert to Ponderosa pines and cedars in the snow. A couple of days ago there was a mountainside covered with so many species of cactus (cacti,) many blooming, that it looked like a botanical garden. Someone said there might be the most snow in southern CA in PC history, and someone else said there were streams running that they've never seen before. People have been really nice. Today, total strangers were camped at a spring where hikers get water, and gave us coffee and bagels for breakfast. Even better yet, they gave us chili dogs and cold drinks last night!

I want to go soak in the hot springs and other hikers are waiting for the computer, so I'm going to run. I'll post more when I get the chance.

Heading to San Diego to start the Pacific Crest Trail

2010-04-20T07:04:00.003-08:00

This morning I'm packing and taking care of the final details before leaving. I fly to San Diego from Sheridan this evening. Tomorrow morning I'll start my hike from the Mexican border near Campo, California.

My PCT Hike Plan

2010-04-09T08:15:00.003-08:00

I just posted my estimated hike plan for the Pacific Crest Trail this summer. I've got some friends planning to meet me along the trail and this will help all of us get a rough idea of when I'll be along certain stretches of trail. I plan to start out fairly slow to help get in good trail shape, to enjoy the early stretch of trail, and to give the snow in the high Sierrras time to melt. Thanks to Craig's PCT Planner for helping me generate my plan!

Website Update: Pacific Crest Trail, 2010

2010-03-18T13:11:00.003-08:00

I just added three pages to my website related to the Pacific Crest Trail:

An introduction to the trail,
A detailed gear list of what I'll be carrying,
And my trail journal, which I'll update as I get the chance along the route.

Planning for the Pacific Crest Trail

2010-03-09T14:21:00.003-09:00

For me, the planning for a long distance hike goes in several stages:
1. First is the germ of the idea.
2. Next, I decide "yup, this is what I'm going to do."
3. Then I start gathering general information, like how long it will take, what types of unique gear I might need this trip, where the trail begins and ends, the general route, and so on.
4. Next, more specific considerations: The ideal "weather window" to avoid deep snow early and late in hiking season. Options to get to the trail-head and back. Ordering new gear. Making arrangements to get my affairs in order before departure. Arranging for permits.
5. Finally, planning specifics. And that's what I've been doing all day today. My most valuable resource is "Yogi's PCT Handbook." A veteran long distance hiker, Yogi tells exactly what a thru-hiker wants to know. Distances between resupply points, best places to take a day off (known as "zero days,") the most important places to mail food, regulations for bear canisters and fire permits, where and if ice axes are necessary.

So today, with Yogi's book and Craig's PCT Planner I have been getting a good idea of where I will be mailing food packages, (for me about nine places along the trail, elsewhere I'll buy-as-I-go) where I might take days off, where I'll mail guidebooks and other printed information, and where I'll send special gear (ice axe, rain pants and mitten shells, bear canister, etc.)

Good planning is helpful, but even more helpful is being flexible and maintaining a good attitude. I'm sure I'll modify my plan when the real world situation doesn't match the theory.

I plan to start my hike on the Mexican border near Campo, CA, likely on April 22, and with a little luck finish in late September in Manning Park, BC.

I love the feeling of an imminent "grand adventure!"

Spectacular Arctic Mirage: Sunset on Denali

2010-01-24T06:25:00.007-09:00

Thoreau said “The true harvest of my life is intangible - a little star dust caught, a portion of the rainbow I have clutched”

Yesterday as I crested the hill on my drive into Fairbanks, the setting sun was just disappearing behind Denali, aka Mt. McKinley. I've seen a lot of sunsets, and I've seen Denali many times, but never combined in such a spectacular way. Soon the sun was directly behind the mountain, which now displayed a corona of blazing plumes of blowing snow against the backdrop of a bright orange ribbon of horizon.

What made the experience even more magical is that so many factors had to coincide perfectly to produce such a rare and breathtaking scene: I happened to be there on a clear day, at the perfect time, at the right altitude, at the exact spot, under perfect atmospheric conditions, on a cold Alaskan winter day. Most intriguing, perhaps, is that Denali is about 160 miles from Fairbanks, so that even at the highest point in Fairbanks Denali should only appear as a low hill peaking over the horizon. Instead, due to an arctic mirage effect it loomed as the highest peak on the horizon.

I found a clip on Youtube that shows how the horizon can move and how Denali can sometimes be easily visible. This clip was taken a couple of years ago, about this time of year in Fairbanks, looking SSW. The colors aren't as spectacular and the plumes of snow don't show, but it does a good job of capturing the illusion. Denali is the peak on the right.

Plans for the Pacific Crest Trail: 2010

2009-09-19T15:19:00.005-08:00

I've just starting making plans to attempt a hike of the Pacific Crest Trail next summer. The PCT is a 2,650 mile trail that runs from the border with Mexico to the Canadian border, roughly following the crest of the Sierra Nevada and the Cascade Mountains. The hike will likely begin in late April or very early May, and with luck I would finish in September. If you click on the map you can see a high resolution shot of the route. Many of those who have hiked the PCT believe it is one of the most enjoyable of the major scenic trails. I hope that is my experience as well. I look forward to another summer on the trail!

Back in Alaska

2008-12-11T18:16:00.003-09:00

In late November I returned to my cabin near Fairbanks. I've recently updated my CDT journal.

Quite a few people have asked me if I plan to produce a DVD about my Continental Divide Trail hike last summer, similar to my Alaska Traverse video, but I didn't take any video on my hike other than some short clips with my still camera. I do have a number of my best still photos on my website however.

It sure is good to be back home and settled in after seven months on the road.

Have a good day, everyone!

Continental Divide Trail Updates at My Website

2008-06-04T11:24:00.002-08:00

Just a reminder that this summer I'm attempting the Continental Divide Trail, and am posting periodic updates on my site.

You can check it out here! http://www.bucktrack.com/Continental_Divide_Trail_Updates.html

Buck

Packing Like Mad!

2008-04-16T18:36:00.002-08:00

I have been preparing for weeks to leave for the CDT, but these last few days have been extremely busy. So many details to iron out; for the trip, for personal business and for Buck Publishing. Happily I'm having to deal with a rush of orders spurred by a glowing review of Alone Across Alaska in Backpacker Magazine.

Just as a reminder to everyone, I'll be posting updates of my CDT hike on my website including a duplicate of this post.

Two New Continental Divide Trail Pages

2008-03-29T16:52:00.005-08:00

I've dedicated two new pages on my personal website to the CDT and my upcoming hike.

The first has maps and information, and the second is where I will post updates of my hike.

Continental Divide Trail

2008-03-02T05:19:00.002-09:00

It's always fun to look ahead to new adventures. This summer I hope to hike the Continental Divide Trail starting on the Mexican border in New Mexico and roughly following the continental divide to the border of Canada, in Glacier National Park, Montana. Depending on the exact route taken, the hike, if completed, will likely be around 2,800 miles long.

They say the trail is about 70% completed, and there are many alternate routes to take. This appears to be a high snow year so I plan to be flexible. A likely scenario is hiking until I hit deep snow near the Colorado border, then "flipping" ahead to South Pass, Wyoming where I'll hike south to pick up the skipped section, which will hopefully be mostly melted off before I get to the deepest snows.

I've been rounding up maps, reading books, researching online and gathering gear. Currently I plan to start in late April, and if things go well and my creaky knees don't hurt too much, I'll likely finish in September or October.

On this trip I hope to update this site with current news and progress as I make town stops along the way, so I hope you'll check back often to read the latest news!

Major site update on www.bucktrack.com

2008-01-03T18:05:00.000-09:00

Happy New Year Everyone!

I just spent a few days updating my site, mostly on the section about my Brooks Range Traverse. I've broken down that part of my site into several pages, including an expanded FAQ, separate pages for the planning and story/photo page, a gear review page, and a wallpaper photo page. I made a whole lot of changes, so if you see any errors like unusable links, let me know.

Check it out!

Also a reminder that with the way this blog is laid out, most new posts appear in the comments section.

Alaska Traverse DVD is here!

2007-12-11T09:25:00.003-09:00

They arrived on my last day in Minnesota, which was just in time to ship out the orders that had piled up. Here's a direct link to the DVD page and trip story and photos.

Someone pointed out that I didn't have the running time on my website. I've now added that, but it's about 90 minutes.

Alaska Brooks Range Traverse DVD ready very soon!

2007-11-22T07:46:00.001-09:00

Well, the DVD of my 1,000 mile solo trip across Alaska is all done and is currently being manufactured. It should be shipped out to me in a few days, and ready to ship to the public shortly thereafter.

You can see more about this trip, and/or pre-order your copy of the DVD in plenty of time for Christmas here.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Miscellaneous Comments and Questions Section

2007-07-23T10:18:00.000-08:00

If you've got anything else to say that doesn't seem to fit anywhere else, it can go here.

Alaska Brooks Range Traverse

2007-07-20T15:12:00.003-08:00

Last summer I hiked and canoed across the Brooks Range of northern Alaska. For the story, many photos, and a gear list, please click this link. If you have any questions or would like to leave any comments, please leave them here.

Alaska Fishing: The Goodnews River

2007-07-20T15:06:00.001-08:00

Great fishing combined with a beautiful river, lots of animals and fishing with good guys made for an awesome trip. I've got many photos and a link to the video at this web page.

Smokejumpers and Smokejumping

2007-07-20T14:59:00.003-08:00

Smokejumping has been the greatest adventure of my life! Please check out my website and leave any questions or comments you may have about The Greatest Job in the World, here.

Questions on how to become a smokejumper? See the following: How can I become a Smokejumper? (Wildfire experience needed.)

Hiking the Appalachian Trail

2007-07-20T14:58:00.001-08:00

If you have questions or comments about hiking the Appalachian Trail, this is the place to do it. I've got several pages and dozens of photos dedicated to my 2001 thru-hike at this link.

Alaska Hunting Adventure: 700 Miles Alone by Backpack and Raft

2007-07-20T14:46:00.002-08:00

One fall I spent six weeks alone in the Alaska bush, hunting, fishing, backpacking and rafting. I have several web pages with many photos dedicated to this adventure, along with a link to the DVD. Questions or comments? Ask them here.

Canoeing the Mississippi River

2007-07-20T14:39:00.003-08:00

Yes, it is possible to canoe the entire Mississippi River. I have several web pages and many photos of my trip from Lake Itasca to the Gulf of Mexico at this link. If you have questions after reading through my site, and the questions and answers below, please leave them, or comments, here. Happy adventuring!